Tested and assambled everything today, looks great... 

All bulbs replaced by Led-lights except the illumination since It must be possible to dim the light...

Dissambled the driver's seat today but will not start working on that until new days eve..

Today I assambled the instrument cluster again just to see if the odo-meter and trip-counter worked and they did, it was enough to grease the gears to make it work again. 

I also replacing the instrument lighting bulbs to led-lights like the one in the picture. There are 3 colors, white,blue and red which will be perfect as headlight and brake indicators.

The red LED light...

I have now cleaned all the gauges and painted the needles orange since thew where bleached to yellow by age and sun. You can see the difference on the picture...

The gauge in the middle still yellow by age and sun bleach.

Odometer gears was ok!

Have had problem with my odometer and trip counter this summer, it did turn but it seemed be stucked somehow. A common fault due to age are that the teeths on the gearwheels is worned down. When I dissambled it, nothing is wrong.... looks like brand new... no missing theets or anything.
I did notice that the trip counter's reset mechanism was very sluggish so hopefully thats the cause of it.

I have cleanead everything and will replace all bulbs, used silicone grease on all the toothed wheels, with a little luck, everyhing will work after assambly. I put up the pictures for the dissambly if anyone needs to see how it looks like.

Acces the Hex(Allen) bult holding the stearing wheel.

Hex (Allen) bult removed

Stearing wheel removed

Backside of instrument cluster

Instrument cluster removed

Backside of Backside of instrument cluster

Bulbs removed

Speedometer removed

Tachometer removed

The other meters removed

Backside of speedometer

Speedometer opened

Plasic cover over the thooted wheels

Gears

Dissambling the instrument house for cleaning

2 screws loosend to take it apart

Just to lift off the transparent shield.

X-mas soon...

A little X-mas greeting from me to all my visitors...
Looks like little Santa likes SL.

The car runs and performs very well, no need to tune any more this winter, will wait until the spring comes. My next project right now is to fix my odometer and trip counter, when that is done I will put in new pads in my chairs since they are very flat and hard right now. So keep on visiting my blog and check it out...

Since my car is running so well right now  It's nothing more to tell right now concerning the Mega squirt installation. Made some final arrangement regarding the electrical installation, removed some unnecessary electrical connections which didn't have any function any more. Next step is to fine tune the warmup enhancement (as soon as it gets colder outside).  When I have some fuel and ignition maps etc. I will post them here but I will do some more fine tuning first...

In the pictures I have used two "powerblocks", one has constant 12V from battery and the other is controlled by the ignition via the relay(for safety). By doing this i have easy acces to one constant 12V and one ignition controlled 12V without using the original power sources directly.

My next project is to fix the odometer gears since the "trip counter" only rotates when it wants to. I do have to remove the steering wheel and hopefully replace it with a wooden one at the same time.

Final installation

Looks good from here...

Made an accelearation movie...

Made a movie while I was out driving today, you can see on the vacuum(economy)-gauge when I hit the floor... About 9-10 sec to 100km/h...

The pedal was stucked to the floor the whole video until the speed drops at the end... Can't say if this is good or not since I could feel a little hesitation in some areas but overall, it performs very well. My Ignition and fuel map are very moderate so my plan is to start fine tuning them and see what that leeds...

Acceleration from standing still

 Made two more videos at the same time as the first but they are not starting from standing still, IMO they felt quicker, maby a auto trans issue. Don't know in wich gear I start from when I standing still.

Acceleration from low speed 1

Acceleration from low speed 2

Got the new heating valve today...

Looks like new, the rubber inside the tube seems soft and in good shape. They said it came from a MB 300SL -89 and was the only used one that I could find in Sweden at this moment and I only paid 460 SEK (70$), got lucky I suppose since they didn't know how much it was worth.
Tested the function and now I can really finetune the heat both on the driver and passanger's side.

The new and the old one...

Ready for test...

Heating valve dissambled.

Have known for a while that there was something wrong with my heating system. Even if I put the temperature switches to max heat, it only came hot air for a little while then it cooled of again.

Decided to dissamble the heating valve which distributes warm cooling water to the passanger and drivers side. When I opened it I could immediately see that the rubber sealings where dry and damaged.

A new one at the local MB dealer costs almost 6000 SEK (900$), fortunatly I found a used one from a 300SL -89 and it only costs 460 SEK (70$).

I will put more pictures as soon as I get the new "used one"... 

Heather "duo" valve

Upper sealing is damaged on the right and the filter should be attatched to the rubber "diaphragm"

Clearly broken..

Due to the broken "diaphragm", cooling water has leaked in to the electrical coils.

Got a "new" automatic transmission.

Seems like I've been driving my car with to little oil in my automatic transmission for a while... I have had some issues with a non working kickdown, and it didn't shiftdown in a smooth way when I hit the pedal without doing a kickdown.

Since I'm not familiar with old autotrans and only had a german users manual I couldn't understand how I should mesure the oil level on the stick.

Now I know that I shall have a really warm engine/transmission, shift stick in "P" and  the motor idling for a couple of minutes. The oil-level under this conditions should be at the high mark (but not over).  It took 2 liters of oil to reach this level and now it works like a charm...

Now it never misses a kickdown, nice smooth downshifts even at small throttle changes and nice accelerations, a whole new transmission. The car have never runned better...

Conclusion...

Have driven the car and have made small adjustment during the test drives. The first problem was that the AFR( Air/Fuel ratio)-value from my Innovate wideband lambda gauge didn't match the value shown in the tuner software(and used by MegaSquirt to adjust the required fuel), this could occour if there are different grounding points for the MegaSquirt ECU and the wideband lambda system but in my case thats not the problem, instead I corrected the voltage from 5V to 5.2 V at AFR 22.39 in the tuning software which synced the gauges correct value and TunerStudios value.
So far, no big suprises.

Since I don't use the original fuelpump relay anymore, I used the empty contact in the original fulepump relay socket to apply 12V from the Relaybord's fuel pump relay.

12V from Megasquirt which starts the fuel pump for 2 sec. at crancing or when engine is running.

First real drive after the swap.

Took my car for a real drive this evening while Auto-tuning the fuelmap!

What a difference, never seen that needle move so fast when I hit that pedal. First of all, the idle... its so rock steady... In "P" it stays on 800 +/-20 rpm and when putting it in drive it slows down to about 600 rpm without any hesitation. The sound from the engine is also different, more smooth and it responses direct on any throttle-change, before there where a little lag.

I spend 50$ to registrate the Tuning software for MegaSquirt and to enable the autotune-feature. Made a ruff estimation of the Air/Fuel need and created a map(picture). Vertical axle is the Load(Throttle opening) and Horisontal the rpm...

Acceleration = rich mixture(below AFR 14.7:1 green area).
Cruizing = Lean mixture(above AFR 14.7:1 red/brown area).
At normal cruizing I usally have a load at 40 and 2500rpm , so my Air/Fuel-ratio stays over the optimal lambda 1 (AFR14.7:1), a little lean when cruizing...
At idle I stay between AFR 13.5 to 14.3, a little rich when idling...

The software then use this AFR-map as target and the Wideband-lambda sensor to tune in/correct the necassery amount of fuel in the actual fuel map. Took the car for a ride, started the auto-tuning and It just got better and better while driving. Of course it needs more fine tuning but the car runs better then ever before although I had a well working K-Jet system before.
To bad I didn't make a acceleration movie before the swap but I will make one now.

First start...

Tried to start the car last evening and it started immediately, I recorded the whole event...
 
Run a little rich since the default fuelmap is designed that way (dont want any holes in the pistons).The the idle is rock steady and the response is very "sharp"
Took it for a short ride and it worked as suspected. Time for some tuning...

 First start movie (You tube)

Mounting everything...

Started to assamble everything this weekend...Did a lekeage-test by connecting the fuel lines and "short circuit" the fuelpump by using a switch which allowed me to start and stop the fuelpump manually.

To avoid the injetors to be shot out by the fuel pressure I kept them in place by using some ducktape an a piece of wood. The injectors spray-pattern looked good so I assume the work...

Movie of Injector / fuelline leakage test

Unfortunatly the banjo-coupling on the left side of the fuel rail wasn't tight enough and I could see a small drop of petrol there, I didn't dare to tighten it more so instead I use some "sealing-glue"which I "painted" on the copper-sealing before tighten it which solved the problem. Then I mounted the throttle linkage which did cause some minor issues. It was a little tight between the fuelrail and one part of the linkage but I grinded down a couple of mm which made enough clearence to make it work.

Here is the injectors before assembling them, notice the double Oring sealings, probably not necassery but it will keep it sealed. The fuelpressure gauge will be removed as soon as everything works properly.

Fuel distributer house and Fuel pressure regulator in place

Injectors in mounted together with the brackets that keeps the fuelrail in place.

Final assabling of throttle linkage and wireing